Day 3. Malmö to Hamburg

These #twitternotes were originally posted 15 September 2019 on Day 3 of fieldwork, travelling from Oslo to London. These tweets describe my travel from Malmö to Hamburg. The thread can also be accessed on twitter.

1/ Day 3. Oslo to London by train. I wanted to write something about the austere spaces of anonymous hotel rooms and evangelical Lutheran churches. But it’s early and I haven’t had a coffee yet. Hamburg bound today. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

2/ On way to Malmö Triangeln station and I have just passed a pile of discarded @ExtinctionR_SV #ExtinctionRebellion banners. This is quite different to the Norwegian care for handpainted political banners and clean up after actions. This makes me a bit sad to see. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

3/ And we’re off! Little yellow suitcase is not so pleased with its belly full of thrift shop red satin (more on that later). Just crossing the Øresund bridge, sea windmills in the distance. First stop København then two more trains to Hamburg. 0h35min. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN


4/ Ceci n’est pas un train. It’s a togbus! Replacement trainbus to Rødby Færge where I will change to a train that will then board a ferry onward to Hamburg. Not great on buses so I will listen to music and try for a snooze. 2h15min. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

5/ My one fear of train travel is being stranded in a place like Rødby Færge. The sea is close. There’s salt and a chill in the air, northern sea smell. Somewhere between the North Sea and Baltic Sea, a train will soon arrive to take us from Denmark into Germany. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

6/ I believe I just overheard someone saying that this station is the most depressing place they’ve been since Baghdad. That can’t be right. #RødbyFærge

7/ Train to Hamburg has boarded a ferry. Am now sitting on deck ‘enjoying’ the fresh air and view, doing my best not to get sea sick/swept out to sea. Am starting to understand Nordic noir. This seems like a very likely setting to be murdered. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN


8/ Cognitive dissonance around flying is profound though, something I’m reflecting on a lot as I travel by train to London from Oslo. And this type of action does stir up a lot of very necessary discussion. #climatecrisis #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

9/ Hamburg Hbf: harassed by a man who called me stupid, dumb for not wanting to buy his mangled ticket I didn’t need. Travelling alone as a woman can be difficult, scary, unsafe. Structural challenges to flying less: not just about energy and transport systems. #OSL2LDN

10/ Staying in Hamburg tonight. Really pleased w/ the hotel. #Meininger, a sort of hotel/hostel hybrid. LOVE the very site-specific bed, referencing the city’s geography. There are also very cool postcards in the lobby, the surest way to my heart. #OSL2LDN

11/ Main reason for my trip is to gain a deeper, embodied understanding of how the climate movement is replicating. Wasn’t expecting to see so much of it before London but there are traces of #ExtinctionRebellion #skolestreik #fridaysforfuture everywhere I’ve been so far. #OSL2LDN

12/ Have just visited Hamburg Kunsthalle, which might be one of the best art museums I’ve ever been too. I didn’t have much time so just tried to soak up as many impressions as I could. It gave me some ideas … #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

13/ Was going to share ideas but they’re a little too unformed, possibly nonsense. Though I’m experimenting w/ tweeting abridged field observations, I also need to write by hand. In the company of Friesentorte and the cup of coffee that will keep me up all night. Mmmm fieldnotes …


Emma Arnold