Day 1. Oslo to Malmö

These #twitternotes were originally posted 13 September 2019 on Day 1 of fieldwork, travelling from Oslo to London. These tweets describe my journey from Oslo to Malmö, the first leg of my train journey to London. The thread can also be accessed on twitter.

1/ Day 1. Oslo to London by train. Taking a moment to remember all the shoes left behind. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

2/ Always get a selfie in front of colourful and/or interesting and/or ironic graffiti or street art. It’s an important part of travelling. #LAXLAB #OSL2LNDN

3/ Last time I was at #OsloS was for an #ExtinctionRebellion die-in back in the spring. Now I am waiting for my first train. First stop Gøteborg, Sweden. 3hr49m. My luggage has acquired a sticker, it seems. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

4/ I get dreadful motion sickness but am going to try and do a bit of work on the train to #Gøteborg. I removed two revise and resubmits from my luggage as I want to focus on #fieldwork but have a very overdue book review that I must finish. Goodbye Oslo fjord. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

5/ Have made it to Sweden. Heia Sverige! Greetings from Gøteborg. Had enough time to quickly peruse the train station bookshop and pass by the bakery to pick up a Swedish vaniljebolle (like a cinnamon bun but with vanilla). Onward to Malmö. High speed train 2h18m. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

6/ In case you were wondering about the #vaniljebolle. I forgot my reusable coffee cup unfortunately but will pick one up along the way.

7/ People travel long distances by train all the time, especially in Europe. And I fully acknowledge that it’s perhaps not so unique to be travelling by train from Oslo to London. But, that’s 6 days of travel time + overnight stays … #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

8/ Travelling for work in this way is certainly not the norm though. Imagine travelling 6+ days for a 2 day conference!? And that’s just to go somewhere ‘close’. The planning isn’t simple, it’s far more expensive, it can be very inconvenient, it takes time, etc … #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

9/ It’s the time aspect that I suspect is most challenging. Perhaps flying less should not be wound up so much in shame but about travelling with more intent. So that when we do travel, it’s meaningful and those 6 or so days are a gift of time rather than a loss. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

10/ Just pulled into Lund train station. Oh my heart! I lived here 11 years ago (studied @IIIEElund). So much nostalgia. So many beautiful memories. Am staying two nights in Malmö en route to London by train for this reason, to have a wander, to softly retrace some steps.

11/ Heisan from Malmö. Forgot just how much I love Sweden. Day 1 of travel from Oslo to London by train complete. Nearly 21:00 and I’m just about ready for bed. My accomodation choices are a bit of a bobo #bourgeoisboheme mix. In Malmö, a pretty decent hostel. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

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12/ God natt. Bon nuit. Goodnight. Will leave you with these two photos from my walk from Malmö train station to the hostel. A nice reminder of why I’m doing this trip. Change the system, not the climate. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN #climatecrisis #xrsweden #ExtinctionRebellion @ExtinctionR_SV

Day 2. Rest day in Malmö and Lund

These #twitternotes were originally posted 14 September 2019 on Day 2 of fieldwork, travelling from Oslo to London. These tweets describe my rest day in Malmö and Lund. The thread can also be accessed on twitter.

1/ Today is a rest day in Malmö/Lund on my from Oslo to London by train. Making a concerted effort to rest and retreat from the screen today. Feeling surprisingly chill. Here’s a trace of the Nordic rebellion in Malmö that I stumbled upon on my way to breakfast. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

Day 3. Malmö to Hamburg

These #twitternotes were originally posted 15 September 2019 on Day 3 of fieldwork, travelling from Oslo to London. These tweets describe my travel from Malmö to Hamburg. The thread can also be accessed on twitter.

1/ Day 3. Oslo to London by train. I wanted to write something about the austere spaces of anonymous hotel rooms and evangelical Lutheran churches. But it’s early and I haven’t had a coffee yet. Hamburg bound today. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

2/ On way to Malmö Triangeln station and I have just passed a pile of discarded @ExtinctionR_SV #ExtinctionRebellion banners. This is quite different to the Norwegian care for handpainted political banners and clean up after actions. This makes me a bit sad to see. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

3/ And we’re off! Little yellow suitcase is not so pleased with its belly full of thrift shop red satin (more on that later). Just crossing the Øresund bridge, sea windmills in the distance. First stop København then two more trains to Hamburg. 0h35min. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN https://t.co/AMlcRAY6Hz

 

4/ Ceci n’est pas un train. It’s a togbus! Replacement trainbus to Rødby Færge where I will change to a train that will then board a ferry onward to Hamburg. Not great on buses so I will listen to music and try for a snooze. 2h15min. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

5/ My one fear of train travel is being stranded in a place like Rødby Færge. The sea is close. There’s salt and a chill in the air, northern sea smell. Somewhere between the North Sea and Baltic Sea, a train will soon arrive to take us from Denmark into Germany. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

6/ I believe I just overheard someone saying that this station is the most depressing place they’ve been since Baghdad. That can’t be right. #RødbyFærge

7/ Train to Hamburg has boarded a ferry. Am now sitting on deck ‘enjoying’ the fresh air and view, doing my best not to get sea sick/swept out to sea. Am starting to understand Nordic noir. This seems like a very likely setting to be murdered. #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN https://t.co/1uiqQJa8bV

 

8/ Cognitive dissonance around flying is profound though, something I’m reflecting on a lot as I travel by train to London from Oslo. And this type of action does stir up a lot of very necessary discussion. #climatecrisis #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

9/ Hamburg Hbf: harassed by a man who called me stupid, dumb for not wanting to buy his mangled ticket I didn’t need. Travelling alone as a woman can be difficult, scary, unsafe. Structural challenges to flying less: not just about energy and transport systems. #OSL2LDN

10/ Staying in Hamburg tonight. Really pleased w/ the hotel. #Meininger, a sort of hotel/hostel hybrid. LOVE the very site-specific bed, referencing the city’s geography. There are also very cool postcards in the lobby, the surest way to my heart. #OSL2LDN

11/ Main reason for my trip is to gain a deeper, embodied understanding of how the climate movement is replicating. Wasn’t expecting to see so much of it before London but there are traces of #ExtinctionRebellion #skolestreik #fridaysforfuture everywhere I’ve been so far. #OSL2LDN

12/ Have just visited Hamburg Kunsthalle, which might be one of the best art museums I’ve ever been too. I didn’t have much time so just tried to soak up as many impressions as I could. It gave me some ideas … #LAXLAB #OSL2LDN

13/ Was going to share ideas but they’re a little too unformed, possibly nonsense. Though I’m experimenting w/ tweeting abridged field observations, I also need to write by hand. In the company of Friesentorte and the cup of coffee that will keep me up all night. Mmmm fieldnotes …

 

Day 9: Blockade of Dover Port by Extinction Rebellion

These #twitternotes were originally posted 21 September 2019 on Day 9 of fieldwork. These tweets describe the Dover Blockade, Extinction Rebellion’s blockade of the Dover Port to raise awareness of food (in)security in a changing climate. The thread can also be accessed on twitter. And one of these tweets was picked up by The Guardian.

1/ Day 9. London. A very sleepy good morning from Southwark. Somewhere around Elephant & Castle. These beautiful small apartment blocks are eclipsed by more recent large-scale development and are like little brick islands in a sea of a glass and traffic junctions. #LAXLAB

2/ On my walk from my apartment to the tube this morning. #aestheticpolitics #urbanaestheticpolitics #ExtinctionRebellion

3/ Have slept 6 hours or less each night so far on my travels and I’m starting to slow down a bit. Intense photographic fieldwork is exhausting! I missed the train I hoped to get so I am enjoying a moment of détente and some coffee before the next one. Also, a bit of reading …

4/ Where to?, you ask. To the seaside, of course. For a blockade.

5/ So beautiful. Bits of white chalk peaking through. Approaching Dover.

6/ In Dover. It is the most gorgeous autumn day. The perfect birthday weather. I have zero clue where I am going. Must be on the right track as I’ve just passed a bunch of #ExtinctionRebelion [sic] posters. Worst case, I have a picnic on the beach.

7/ Well then, definitely in the right place as I have just been issued a Section 14 breach of public order warning by police. Just for walking with my camera. If I leave the designated area, I can be arrested. #ExtinctionRebellion #Dover #Blockade

8/ I’m in the designated area, an encampment overlooking the sea. Lots of police, given that this is a blockade of a major port. It’s difficult to know what’s happening at the blockade which is some distance away. Arrests highly likely. #ExtinctionRebellion #XR #DoverBlockade

9/ Red rebels, white cliffs. #ExtinctionRebellion #climatecrisis #nofoodonadyingplanet #foodsecurity #DoverBlockade

10/ A beautiful silent performance by #ExtinctionRebellion‘s #RedRebelBrigade as transport trucks move past the #whitecliffsofdover. #DoverBlockade #foodsecurity #climatecrisis

 
11/ Do not take all the beautiful pebbles, Emma. Also: I should have been born by the sea.

12/ A delicate balancing act between respecting those being disrupted and those doing the disrupting, says Kent Police.

13/ Sometimes good to take a peaceful moment and get your feet wet. I would have gone for a swim. The sea is actually warmer than the Oslo Fjord!

14/ No Brexit on a dead planet. #ExtinctionRebellion #DoverBlockade #Brexit

15/ The sound of the sea and a live band playing ‘Knocking on heaven’s door’ and the silence of the #RedRebelBrigade in their final action of the day. Very powerful performance.  #ExtinctionRebellion #DoverBlockade #Dover #Kent
16/ My introversion kicked in today and didn’t talk to anyone much. Instead had a peaceful day observing, making art (took many photos). Lay on the beach, got some sun and sea air. Missing my Norwegian rebels but had a really inspiring day, a little wiser maybe, more relaxed surely.
17/ I love the palette of Dover: the white cliffs, the flint pebbles, the colour of the water and algae against concrete, dusty green shrubs. #Dover #Kent 
18/ Well, I’m mentioned in The Guardian on my birthday. So thanks @guardian for the most excellent gift. More importantly, thank you tp [sic] @ExtinctionR #XRDover + the rebels who did get arrested during #DoverBlockade to raise awareness on food security + climate.
19/ Thank you to all #ExtinctionRebellion activists present at #DoverBlockade today. I felt like more of a bystander but was so impressed by the atmosphere, organisation, the amazing performances by the #RedRebelBrigade, and a very peaceful protest. Dover rebels are awesome!

20/ Also, thank you very much to Mary from Ramsgate who generously gave me 20p for the washroom AND bought me a mint chocolate chip ice cream cone. I’ll pay the kindness forward. #kindnessofrebel

Day 10: Rest day in South London

These #twitternotes were originally posted 22 September 2019 on Day 10 of fieldwork in London. These tweets describe my much needed rest day in South London. The thread can also be accessed on twitter.

1/  Day 10. London. Followed the smell of breakfast down the street and into The Electric Elephant Café. About all I have the energy for is to read my brochure on the pebbles of Dover beach. I am not being facetious, it is excellent. I have already identified all of my pebbles.

 

2/ Peter Gabriel’s ‘Games without frontiers’ is playing over a backdrop of sizzles and the café owner + cooks are discussing the climate strike. Because of the strike, the owner has decided to go vegetarian. A full vegetarian English breakfast is ridiculous. This is food for a day.

3/ Off for a wander. The area around Elephant & Castle is such a fascinating mix of architecture and atmospheres. Phone away for a bit, going to explore.

4/ After a long meandering walk around the neighbourhood in daylight, I realised that I have been here before. And I have been to The Electric Elephant Café before. My good friends used to live the next street over + I stayed with them. #visualmemory #serendipity #kennington

5/ Had very restful day in South London. A morning walk through soft rain and soft sounds, collecting textures and palettes. A Sunday afternoon nap, a cup of tea, and a little writing in bed as inspiration struck.

6/ I would move to the UK for the gardens alone. I love all the colours and disarray of autumn gardens, full of splayed open seed pods and pale hues of crispy, dried out leaves and stems. Smells so nice in the rain too.